What Is Microneedling? An NP’s Guide to Collagen Induction Therapy

Medically reviewed by Stefanie Drozd, MSN, APRN, FNP-C, CANE · Last reviewed May 23, 2026

The short answer: Microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries in the skin using fine sterile needles. The body responds by producing new collagen and elastin, smoothing scars, fine lines, and texture over the following 3 to 6 months. There are three variants: mechanical, PRP (platelet-rich plasma), and RF (radiofrequency), and each fits different skin concerns. Express Med Spa performs all three, NP-supervised, at four Illinois locations.

This is the same explainer we give patients in their first consultation. It’s longer than the Google answer box, but if you’re new to microneedling, twelve minutes here will save you fifty minutes of bad information elsewhere.

What Is Microneedling, Really?

Microneedling, also called collagen induction therapy or percutaneous collagen induction in the clinical literature, is a procedure in which fine, sterile needles are passed across the skin to create thousands of microscopic channels in the dermis. Those channels are too small to leave visible damage, but they’re large enough to trigger the body’s natural wound-healing response.

When the wound-healing cascade activates, two things matter. First, fibroblasts (the cells that produce collagen and elastin) ramp up. Second, the micro-channels themselves stay open briefly, which means topical products applied during or after the pass can absorb more deeply than they would on intact skin.

The result, when the procedure is performed correctly: gradual improvement in skin texture, fine lines, atrophic acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and enlarged pores over 3 to 6 months. The American Academy of Dermatology recognizes microneedling as an effective treatment for several of these concerns. The FDA classifies professional microneedling devices as Class II medical devices, which means a clinical setting and trained operator matter.

The needles used in our clinic are sterile, single-use cartridges, never reused between patients. Depth is controlled mechanically by the device, typically between 0.5mm and 2.5mm depending on the area and goal. (That depth range is why clinical microneedling is fundamentally different from a dermaroller you can buy on Amazon, but more on that later.)

How Microneedling Works on Your Skin

The mechanism is straightforward in principle. Here’s what happens during and after a session:

1. Micro-channels form. Sterile needles create thousands of controlled punctures across the treatment area. Pinpoint bleeding sometimes occurs and is normal.
2. Inflammation cascade activates. Within minutes, the body identifies the micro-injuries as wounds and mobilizes the standard healing response: platelets release growth factors, immune cells arrive, inflammation flags the area for repair.
3. Fibroblasts produce new collagen. Over the following weeks, fibroblasts in the dermis lay down new type I and type III collagen, plus elastin. This is where the real benefit comes from.
4. Skin remodels over 3 to 6 months. The collagen matures, organizes, and reinforces the dermal scaffolding. Visible improvement is gradual, not instant.

Patients who expect dramatic next-day results are sometimes disappointed. The truth is that collagen doesn’t form overnight. Your body needs weeks to lay it down and months to remodel it. The first visible texture improvement usually appears around 4 to 6 weeks; the full effect of a session shows around 3 to 6 months.

This is why we plan microneedling as a series rather than a single visit. Each session adds another layer of collagen-induction stimulus while the previous session is still remodeling.

The Three Types of Microneedling

This is the part most articles skip. There isn’t one microneedling treatment; there are three primary variants, each with different mechanisms and different sweet spots. At Express, we perform all three.

Mechanical Microneedling

Mechanical microneedling is the baseline: needles only, no added energy or product. It’s the most affordable option, has the shortest visit time, and produces solid collagen-induction results for early signs of aging, mild texture issues, and superficial acne scars.

Mechanical microneedling alone is often a good starting point for patients new to the category, patients on a constrained budget, or patients whose concerns are mild and surface-level. It’s also the safest variant for skin tones at higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, because there’s no added thermal energy.

PRP Microneedling (Sometimes Called the “Vampire Facial”)

PRP microneedling adds platelet-rich plasma, drawn from your own blood at the start of the session, to the standard microneedling pass. We draw 10 to 20mL of blood (comparable to a routine lab), spin it on site in a centrifuge to separate the platelet concentrate, and apply the PRP topically during and after the microneedling pass. The growth factors in the platelets, including PDGF, VEGF, TGF-B, and others, absorb through the open micro-channels and enhance the body’s collagen-induction response.

PRP microneedling is sometimes called the “vampire facial,” a name popularized by a 2013 photo of Kim Kardashian. We use the clinical name because it’s more accurate. (A separate procedure called the Vampire Facelift uses PRP injection without microneedling; we don’t perform that one.)

PRP microneedling at Express uses the Cytopen device. Peer-reviewed studies of PRP-added microneedling versus mechanical microneedling alone show modest-to-meaningful additive benefit, especially for atrophic acne scars and aged skin.

Read the full PRP microneedling guide.

RF Microneedling (Sublative)

RF microneedling adds bipolar radiofrequency energy to the microneedling pass. As the needles penetrate the dermis, RF energy delivered through the needle tips heats deeper tissue, creating small thermal coagulation zones. The thermal injury triggers additional collagen formation, and the heat causes immediate elastin contraction for a modest skin-tightening effect.

At Express, we perform RF microneedling using the Sublative system at our La Grange, Mt Greenwood, and Shorewood locations. (A Frankfort RF page is in progress.) Sublative penetrates roughly 1.5 to 2.5mm into the dermis, deeper than mechanical microneedling but shallower than Morpheus8’s subdermal-fat depth.

RF microneedling is the right tool when the concern is mild-to-moderate laxity, deeper acne scars (especially boxcar), or skin tightening as an adjunctive goal.

Read the full RF microneedling guide.

What Does Microneedling Treat?

Below are the indications where microneedling has the strongest clinical evidence and the highest patient satisfaction in our practice. We’ll be honest about what works well and what doesn’t.

Acne Scars

This is the indication with the strongest peer-reviewed evidence. Microneedling is well-established for atrophic acne scars, the indented kind, including rolling, boxcar, and ice pick subtypes. Rolling scars respond best. Boxcar scars respond moderately. Ice pick scars are the hardest to treat and often need a combination approach (microneedling plus subcision, TCA cross, or filler).

Microneedling is not appropriate for hypertrophic or keloid scars. Those are raised, not indented, and microneedling can make them worse.

Realistic improvement based on peer-reviewed studies: 30 to 60% in scar appearance, depending on scar type, variant chosen, and session count. That’s improvement, not erasure. Read the dedicated acne scar guide.

Fine Lines and Wrinkles

Microneedling treats static wrinkles, the kind that are visible at rest, caused by collagen and elastin loss in the dermis. By stimulating new collagen, microneedling helps the dermal scaffolding regain some of what aging takes away.

Microneedling does not treat dynamic wrinkles, the kind caused by muscle movement (frown lines, crow’s feet, forehead lines). Dynamic wrinkles are the domain of neurotoxins like Xeomin or Botox. Many patients combine microneedling with neurotoxins to address both kinds in a single plan.

Read the dedicated wrinkles guide.

Hyperpigmentation

Microneedling helps post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), sun damage, and lentigines, especially when paired with appropriate topical regimens and strict sun protection. Melasma is more complex: sometimes microneedling helps, sometimes it makes melasma worse, and we approach it cautiously. Read the dedicated hyperpigmentation guide.

Stretch Marks

Microneedling can improve the appearance of stretch marks, particularly recent red stretch marks (striae rubrae) on the abdomen, hips, and thighs. Mature white stretch marks (striae albae) respond less robustly. Realistic improvement is around 50 to 75% in appearance, not stretch mark removal. Read the dedicated stretch marks guide.

Enlarged Pores

The collagen reinforcement around pore margins makes pores appear smaller. The pores themselves don’t shrink; the tissue around them tightens. Several sessions are typically needed for visible change.

Skin Texture

For uneven texture from past breakouts, sun damage, or aging, microneedling smooths the surface gradually over a series. Often this is the patient’s primary goal, even when they thought it was something else.

What to Expect During a Microneedling Session

The session itself is straightforward, and we walk every new patient through it before we start.

1. Consult and skin assessment (15 to 30 minutes for first visit).
2. Topical numbing. A compounded lidocaine cream is applied for 20 to 30 minutes. For PRP sessions, we draw blood during the numbing window so the centrifuge can run while you wait.
3. Cleanse. Numbing is wiped off; the skin is cleansed.
4. The microneedling pass (15 to 30 minutes). The pen moves across the treatment area in even strokes. Most patients describe the sensation with topical numbing as a 2 to 4 out of 10 on the pain scale.
5. Soothing serum. A hyaluronic acid layer; PRP if applicable; mineral SPF if you’re heading outside.
6. Aftercare instructions and 2-week follow-up booking. You leave with a printed protocol and your follow-up appointment scheduled.

Total visit time: 60 to 90 minutes. PRP and RF variants are on the longer end.

How Many Sessions Will You Need?

A typical series at Express looks like this:

• General rejuvenation (fine lines, texture, pores): 3 to 4 sessions, 4 to 6 weeks apart
• Acne scars: 4 to 6 sessions, 4 to 6 weeks apart
• Stretch marks: 6 to 10 sessions, 4 to 6 weeks apart
• Maintenance after the series: one session annually keeps the collagen investment compounding

Your NP will set the cadence at your first visit based on your skin and goals.

Downtime and Aftercare

Expect mild redness for 1 to 3 days, visually similar to a mild sunburn. Mild dryness, peeling, and tightness in the days after are normal and a sign the collagen response is underway.

The non-negotiables:

• Mineral SPF 30+ daily for at least 14 days post-treatment. This is the most important rule for getting your money’s worth out of a microneedling investment.
• No active ingredients (retinol, AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C in L-ascorbic form) for 5 to 7 days.
• No sauna, steam, hot yoga, or chlorine for 3 to 5 days.
• No makeup for 24 to 48 hours.

We hand every patient a printed copy of the same protocol. Full day-by-day aftercare guide here.

Is Microneedling Safe?

Microneedling is generally safe with proper screening and a qualified provider. That said, it’s not for everyone. We screen every patient before treatment, and there are specific conditions and medications that make microneedling either inappropriate or contraindicated.

Absolute contraindications: active skin infection at the treatment site, isotretinoin (Accutane) use within the last 6 months, history of keloid scarring, pregnancy, severe active cystic acne, open wounds, recent radiation, and (for the PRP variant specifically) bleeding disorders or active anticoagulation.

For the full safety discussion, contraindications list, and adverse-event protocol, see the complete safety guide.

Microneedling vs. At-Home Dermarollers: The Honest Answer

This question deserves a straight answer because most med-spa content either ignores at-home rollers or attacks them outright. Here’s the honest take.

At-home dermarollers exist on a spectrum:

• 0.25mm needle depth: Too shallow to cause clinical change. May help product absorption marginally. Generally safe to use weekly with a clean roller.
• 0.5mm: Borderline. Some collagen response possible; sterility becomes a real concern.
• 1.0mm and deeper: Should not be used at home. At these depths the device is creating real dermal wounds, and sterility, technique, and depth control matter, none of which can be assured at home.

A few facts worth noting:

1. Clinical microneedling uses 1.5 to 2.5mm depth. That’s the depth where collagen induction reliably occurs. At-home tools at consumer-safe depths simply don’t reach that tissue.
2. Sterility matters. A reused at-home roller, even one you “clean,” carries infection risk. Our clinic uses single-use sterile cartridges: one cartridge per patient, discarded after.
3. At-home rollers cannot deliver PRP or RF energy. Two of the three variants don’t exist outside a clinic.
4. At-home rollers can worsen post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if used on the wrong skin type or with poor sun protection.

Our position: light at-home rolling (0.25mm) is fine for product-absorption maintenance between professional sessions. For acne scars, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, or any clinical concern, at-home is the wrong tool.

Microneedling vs. Chemical Peels

Both are collagen-stimulating resurfacing treatments, but they work through completely different mechanisms: mechanical injury versus chemical exfoliation. Each has indication sweet spots; we offer both at Express, and many patients use both over time. Read the full comparison guide.

How Long Do Results Last?

A typical microneedling series produces collagen that remains visible for 6 to 12+ months. Lifestyle factors matter: sun exposure, smoking, sleep quality, and diet all affect how long the collagen investment holds. Annual maintenance sessions extend the timeline indefinitely.

Who Shouldn’t Get Microneedling?

The absolute contraindications, in plain language: active skin infection, recent isotretinoin (Accutane), history of keloid scarring, pregnancy, severe cystic acne, open wounds, recent radiation therapy. For PRP specifically, add active bleeding disorders.

If any of these apply to you, your NP will recommend an alternative. We’d rather decline a treatment than perform one that isn’t right for your situation. Full safety guide.

Where to Find Microneedling at Express

Express Med Spa performs PRP microneedling at all four Illinois locations, and Sublative RF microneedling at three (with a Frankfort RF page in progress):

• Frankfort: 11 S White St, Suite 104. PRP microneedling live; Sublative RF in progress.
• La Grange: 320 W Burlington Ave. PRP and Sublative RF.
• Mount Greenwood, Chicago: 3314 W 111th St. PRP and Sublative RF.
• Shorewood: 707 W Jefferson St (serving Joliet). PRP and Sublative RF.

Call 877-363-3772 to schedule at any location, or book online.

FAQs

Does microneedling really work? Yes, for the right indications and with realistic expectations. The strongest evidence is for atrophic acne scars, with meaningful but more modest results for fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and skin texture. It’s collagen-building, not a miracle.

How is microneedling different from PRP and RF microneedling? PRP microneedling adds your own platelet growth factors for enhanced regeneration. RF microneedling adds radiofrequency heat for tightening and deeper collagen. Mechanical microneedling uses needles only. Each has different sweet spots; we plan the variant at consult.

Can microneedling go wrong? Yes, occasionally. Risks include infection (rare with sterile cartridges), persistent erythema, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (especially in darker skin tones if protocol is wrong), and tram-track scarring from poor technique. Provider experience matters. We screen every patient and follow a conservative-first protocol.

Is microneedling worth the cost? For most patients with the right indication, yes. The collagen built in a series remains visible for 6 to 12+ months, and annual maintenance extends it. Compared to repeat-cost treatments like neurotoxins, the per-year math often favors microneedling, but it depends on your specific goals.

Can I do microneedling at home? At very shallow depth (0.25mm) for product absorption, sure. At clinical depth (1.5 to 2.5mm) for actual results, no. Sterility and technique matter too much. See our at-home section above.

How long until I see results? Initial texture improvement around 4 to 6 weeks; full collagen remodeling around 3 to 6 months after the last session in a series.

This article reviews the basics of microneedling and the three variants Express Med Spa performs. Individual results vary by skin type, age, indication, and aftercare adherence. All before-and-after photographs on this site are real Express patients who consented to share their results for educational use; we do not use stock photography. This content is reviewed annually by our NP-led clinical team, last reviewed May 25, 2026. It is not a substitute for an in-person medical consultation.